Chinese dumplings & green tea ice cream 

Several years ago, Mr. and Mrs. Li, who emigrated from Hubei, China, bought a small grocery store in the Sunset. They set up a tiny, immaculate kitchen in the back and started producing 24 varieties of pristinely fresh handmade dumplings for cooking at home. Most are quick-frozen, but you can buy whatever happens to be fresh at the moment and ever so carefully transport them home. If the fresh dough of one dumpling touches another, they immediately stick together and you've got a big problem on your hands. Poach pork and spinach won tons ($4.20 for 22) for six minutes until they bob to the surface. Boil pork and string bean dumplings ($6.49 for 22), so thrillingly crunchy inside, for about nine minutes. Steam xaio long bao, round dumplings swirled at the top and filled with broth and pork ($4.99/dozen), for eight minutes. Times are a little longer for frozen dumplings.

Asian American Food Company, 1426 Noriega St., San Francisco; (415) 665-6617;

Green Tea Ice Cream and Frostys

After Hong Kong Seafood, stroll over to Polly Ann for a cone of green tea ice cream with an exciting astringent edge. You have 49 daily flavors to choose from, including fruity offerings such as mango — but I'm a fool for Frosty, the excellent vanilla soft serve.

Polly Ann Ice Cream, 3138 Noriega St., San Francisco; (415) 664-2472;

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Patricia Unterman

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