Sarah Burton’s Spring 2012 collection for Alexander McQueen is packed with many of McQueen’s aesthetic trademarks: headgear, magnificent detailing and surreal femininity.
When McQueen died in 2010, he left a unique legacy that only could have been continued by Burton, who began working closely with McQueen in the 1990s. McQueen’s exceptional tailoring capabilities, which Burton shares, made him a master at using unconventional materials in his work, including shells, feathers and bones.
Beauty’s contradictions always have been at the core of the McQueen aesthetic, which often combines grotesque and sensual elements. Burton’s Spring collection, in which bold black vinyl lace and shards of metallic beading contrast with soft netting, ruffles and mysterious, ethereal, ocean-inspired embellishments, follows McQueen’s example. Fetish is incorporated but does not dominate, and Burton has proved herself a master of versatility just like her predecessor.